Please view our video on Glare removal tips and tricks at Glare Tips Video

We’ve gotten a handful of these reports, but all of them actually still have the power cord box in the packaging itself, but just haven’t found it yet. Try going back into the Shotbox box and look for a small white box at the bottom. If it’s not there, please get in touch with us at customerservice@shotbox.me.

One side of the lights won't turn on.

What type of power adapter does it require?

I have wrinkles in my Backdrops. How do I get them out?

Yes! The top holes are large enough to shoot through, and you can use mini-tripod, or "elbow-pod" to shoot from the front.

Does the SHOTBOX scan negatives or slides?

Negatives and slides are not in the scope of SHOTBOX. We recommend Kodak Scanza (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=kodak+scanza&ref=nb_sb_noss_1) if you have a big project and a decent amount to do, or Photomyne's SlideScan and FilmBox (www.photomyne.com) with a backlight if it's not too many. If you have 1000's of slides there might be Family History center like BYU has that has expensive equipment you can use, but even something like the Scanza can go through that many, especially if you put on a couple of movies and just get rolling. Then they are done for good. :-)

Banding occurs when the dimmer is less than full and the camera app isn't able to adjust to the shutter speed necessary to match the light frequency. This isn't a problem with DSLR's, Digital Cameras or a supporting camera app. Make sure the on/off switch is all the way to the right at full power. Any banding should stop. In case you really needed to dim here are a couple of quick solutions or workarounds: 1) You can quickly use the toggle switch (upper left button on the front) to turn off half the lights. 2) There is a good app (much better than the native camera) that adjusts shutter speed, as well as provide many superior features over most other camera apps. It's called ProCam. I've attached a quick tutorial to this message. We highly recommend this app and its additional abilities all around. 3) Take the photo at full light strength and use the camera app's contrast and brightness features to adjust. This often provides superior results as the software balances the color tones. It really comes down to whether dimming is needed when using a smart phone. We're looking at mechanical solutions, but the physical dimming helps more with DSLR photography than the quick tuning that can be done on a mobile device.

The hourglass shape holds 4 distinct features over a regular cube box: 1- The angles actually assist the light within the box to diffuse and balance. By providing more angles to bounce off of and collide with it creates softer lighting on the floor. 2- The shape assists the easy collapsible nature of the SHOTBOX. 3- By having the hourglass corners fit snuggling into the back support wall, very instant and easy strength and stability is achieved. 4- Aesthetically it is a pleasing design.

Depending on the size of your document you may be able to move it to one side of the floor and toggle off the LED on that side of the box. What this does is redirect the top light to the other side and there is no direct glare anymore. This works well with 8.5x11" documents or smaller.

For 12x12" documents the best fix is still coming. Ultimately the Shotbox was invented to solve and accelerate oversized scanning, so we're very serious about accomplishing that need. We will soon be releasing a "Shield Kit" that can install into any existing Shotbox and places removeable shields directly over the LEDs. With the glare shields in place many glare cases are actually fixed right away, with no other need to adjust. This Shield Kit will be available by the end of April.

Another advanced fix by the end of April is web service software that can tag two "toggle shot" images and blend them together, removing the glare spots. The trick is to take one image with one LED toggled off, then flip the toggle switch to the other side and take another image without moving the target or device. This gives the software two references that can be combined for a clean image.

Between these two solutions we're confident most glare issues are quickly solved. There may be harder cases but that depends on the target itself.

Each brand will be slightly different. Nikon, for instance, often have a portion of their lens that can easily fit within the top hole and hold the camera in place. With other brands you’ll need to simply hold the camera in place, resting it on the top of the SHOTBOX which taking the picture. We are working on a mount system that will assist with this.

On the upper left corner of the box is a Toggle Switch for turning on/off the left and right LED strips. You can use these to dim the inside lights. You can also control where the glare might be coming from depending on what you’re trying to photograph. Experiment!

This is the cable that tethers the SideShot to the power jack in the back of the box. Plug the USB side into the top of the SideShot and the needle end into the small hole next to the power plug.

This is a 2.1a USB port to charge any smart device that you might be using while operating the SHOTBOX. We never want you to run out of juice! Just use your regular charging cable appropriate for your device.

Yes, but your portable power product will need an AC power plug, which isn’t as common. GoalZero has their Sherpa lineup that have the AC inverter options. (www.goalzero.com)

The inside measures 14 1/4" wide, 15" deep, and 15" tall.

The lights aren't replaceable, but they are rated at 50,000 hours, equating to 22+ years at 6 hours a day. So they won't go out anytime soon. We guarantee the box for any failures for 12 months. That would include anything with the structure, wiring and lighting, etc.